. trash man cometh, just about 8 o’clock. all the weekend debris dumped into a moving bin, driven inland to some dump somewhere. sun not yet risen, monday morning coming ‘round. the Valencianos back to work. tallers, abogados, secretarios, trash men, kings . . .
. the central market is full of wares. fruits & vegetables, rabbits & chickens. bottles of vermouth, bottles of wine. bottles of olive oil & agua de valència. assorted candies & nuts & spices. paprika from Murcia everywhere. three kinds of beans for making paella, special rice & spice for that too. cheeses of every … More Mercat Central, València, Spain 1/30/23
. hit Valèncian streets just after sunrise. cut across Carrer de Filipinos for a walk in Central Park. two sleepers on park benches, palm fronds catch the rising sun, dogs abound. they’re sound checking the sound system for a sunday festival soon to come. reggae beats, boom blast bass fills the park. we follow the … More Parc Central, València, Spain 1/29/23
. coffee in the park, Plaça de Manuel Granero to be exact. kick around Russafa, our funky little neighborhood. Charlie Parker wails from the Oli Bar hifi as dogs wheel around, kids commandeer the swing-set & pigeons kick up sand. spanish sun filtering through the trees . . .
. back from Palermo, just a two hour flight. touchdown València, fetch our ceramic laden bags, grab a cab into the city. dropped off at Pintor Gisbert up three flights to shed all our Sicilian wares. call in an order of Chinese take away from Centelles Bar 49 down the corner, get to use my … More València, Spain 1/27/23
. one last gasp of Sicilia, on a banshee ride to that airport named in honor of two anti-mafia crusaders gunned down back in the 90’s: Falcone-Borsellino. weave the traffic choked arteries outta Palermo. furniture stores, Fiat dealerships, petrol stations & big tent of Circus Columbo line the zig zag highway as murderous mountains crumble … More Palermo, Sicily; Italy 1/26/23
. Vucciria Night market in the pouring rain. saturday night, cold & dark, but Azurra Bar is packed to overflowing, kids spilling out into the alley. all the pretty bottles, red, green, white & blue. shelves of wines & gins & amaros, the barkeeps turn & burn. order up prosecco & an aperol spritz, they … More Vucciria Market, Palermo, Sicily 1/25/23
. out to fetch coffee early on a sunday morning. piazza aragona quiet & wet, still glistening with last night’s rain. pigeons flushed from out a trash pile, murmur of lone moped behind. sun catch the tops of Saint Anna’s gabled spires as bells fill up the city with song. barback sweeps out the last … More Barrio de la Kalsa, Palermo, Sicily 1/24/23
. ramble tamble all over town. in outta churches, with frescos of mary & joseph & the baby jesus, noah’s ark & a pile of saints. antipasto & a couple of pastas at Odori e Sapori al Vecchio Monte (Odor & Taste of the Old Mountain). up cobbles down them as the sun lights up … More Palermo, Sicily; Italy 1/23/23